“Dear lord I am going to Die!” The thought was screaming at me inside my head. It had been nearly a decade since I snowboarded. I had mistakenly thought it had only been five. Ha ‘Who was I kidding?’ I was looking at a view of titan sized mountains, the peaks of which were lost to us mere mortals in the clouds of the heavens, each one seemed to be fighting each other as they climbed their way into space. Below, it was sprinkled with warm romantic Austrian chalets. Any of which I would much rather be in, warming my feet by a large, cavernous fireplace sipping Gluhwein (Mulled wine) and relaxing. Anywhere but here, teetering on the edge of life and death; looking down on my impending doom, prepared to flail my tiny fragile body in the direction of Innsbruck, Austria.
It was only my third day in town. I had arrived in the afternoon the day before at the petite airport just east of the city. I had got the recommendation to go from a close friend of mine. I could recall her warming me up to the idea of a romantic get-away snowboarding and celebrating the New year. “You’ll love it.” she said, “It’s the type of place you will want to come back to again and again.” Right, now I could see myself pouring that glass of ale she was drinking right down her throat as she said it. She was right though, on the scenery. Even from the shuttle ride in I could see the unique elements of Innsbruck’s classic architecture. The river Inns from which the town drives its name. Innbruck’s means: “bridge over the Inn River.” Along its bank are tightly crammed houses in Easter egg pastels all cheerfully smiling and hoping to be picked.
The shuttle took me past the Triumphpforte just alongside the main shopping thorofare, a Roman-style triumphal arch and predominate feature of the town center. It was commission by Empress Maria Theresa in 1765 to commemorate her son’s wedding. Through the winding streets lined with remarkable Baroque style facades buildings. We passed alongside the Helblinghaus the most impressive example of them all. Located on Herzog Friedrich Straße. Towering in the distance, like a proud papa over his large brood. Stadtturm was a worthy trip for those that appreciate where architecture meets history. Completed in 1450 it was originally used as a guard tower. The guards stationed would call out the hours and warn the villagers of threats such as fires. During the middle ages the lower rooms were used as a prison. However, in the 1951’s the building had less official use and its top office now holds literary meetings of the Innsburk Literary Society known as the Turmbunds.
I was lucky enough to be dropped off just across the street from my hotel. The weather was still mild for late December just after Christmas but before New Year’s. By the looks of the streets there was not much to be said for the snow that season. Though, Innsbruck is only elevation is only 574m or 1,887 ft compared with Stubai Glacier Resort (Stubaier Gletscher) at 1,515m or 4,970ft.
The much of Rathaus Galerien shopping area and Maria-Theresien-Straße were still lined with its traditional Christmas Market. Venders were out selling their assortment of trinkets, wooden hand puppets clung to the brittle roofs of the vender hunts, desperate to stay clear of the frostbitten wind. Jewellery, books, paintings, sweets and treats any number of sizes, shape and flavour. Apfelstrudel (Apple Strudel) and Kaiserschmarrn (Austrian puffy pancake with apple sauce) where being cook in makeshift cafés. Sachertorte (Austrian Chocolate cake with jam) Esterhazy-Schnitte (Layered cake with curd filling) and Topfentascherl (pastry filled with curd) all arranged in mouth-watering displays.
I travelled up the narrow streets of old town and toward the Nordkettebahnen. I wanted to get a feel for my surroundings and literally start to understand the mountain I was about to the conquer. I purchased my €38.00 ticket and stood in the que to board with the rest of my fellow travellers. The funicula creepied down from the mountain side and we all pilled in. Pressing our faces against the glass for the best view. As the car yawned and stretched itself awake and began the lumber back up the mountain. Our trip took us just to the right of the Inn river. Through Karwendel Nature Park, Austria’s largest natural park. The first stop Hungerburg just eight minutes up the mountain. Then Seegrube, at a height of 1905m or 6,250 ft. I carried on up to the very top. The dizzying view of the town disappearing as we climbed and climbed to Hafelekar lying at an impressive 2255m of 7,401 ft, in the air. The crisp mountain air whirled around me as I stepped off. You could almost imagine running into an Abominable Snowman tucked away in his remote cave. The view before me stretched out 360°. Mountains reaching up to the sky, and now an ant like village of Innsbruck at the bottom. A small rustic chalet was the only refuge from the swirling wind the Jack Frost was furiously pitching at my face and threated to lift me right over the edge of the mountain. I grabbed a seat by the window and order up a warm bowl of goulash served in a bread bowl or Semmelknödel. It was hard to image that anyone could be serving food at this altitude!
I sat and sipping my warm meat and potato stew, as I was mesmerized by the view of 400 mountain peaks ofStubaital, Ötztal and Zillertal Alps. The stew warmed the chill from my bones and outside flurries of snowflakes began to tango on the wind. Their romantic courtship playing past the window as more dancers began fill the air. Then, just as suddenly as it had started, it stops. The sun slashed its rays through the ominous looking storm clouds and shown down its fierce white brilliance on Innsbruck below. I took the momentary brake in the storm to head down one stop to have a hot mulled wine at Cloud 9 Iglu Bar. The bar had yet to be built in its traditional ice bricks and instead was white plastic tent with a Dj. The music pumped out from the opening of the door. German, house, techno, drum and base pulsed around the tent and out into the wild Austrian wind. The locals and tourist danced on the hills side peering out across the void.
If you ever had fears of heights, like I do. Innsbruck mountains and snowboarding gave me a chance to conquer my deepest fear. The fear of heights and falling down a mountain. This fear has been inside me, my whole life. A moment that gives you a prospective of a view is worth a fearful endeavour. Then you dive in, feel alive, and celebrate the thrill that makes you feel the truest form of life.
